Altering the Commercial Historical Pattern
We will cover the differences between fit in standard commercial patterns and those in-
tended for costuming. We will also examine the differences among the various pattern
companies: Simplicity, McCalls and Vogue, as well as the many small historical compa-
nies. With these factors in mind... the majority of the class will focus on how to alter any
commercial pattern to reflect the wearer's measurements.
The book this technique is based on is Nancy Zieman's Fitting Finesse The technique
itself is called "pivot and slide".
Choose the right size
How sizes are misleading
Ready to Wear
Pattern Standards
Ease
Wearing ease
Design ease
pattern companies vary!
Measure arm crease to arm crease
14"= size 14
each size +-1/2 inch
Take measurements
back waist length
upper bust
bust
under bust
difference between under bust and bust determines cup size
waist :
hip
hip height—
Prepare the pattern
cut out or completely trace front and back bodice pieces
extend grain lines
all reference lines perpendicular to grain lines
bust
waist
hip
add pivot points
"A" where the shoulder seam and the armhole seam cross
"B" where the bust and side seam cross
"C" where the waist and side seam cross
"D" where the hip and side seam cross
Compare pattern to your measurements
compare back waist length
compare bust measurement to that on the pattern
compare waist measurement to that on the pattern
compare hip measurement to that on the pattern
Modifying the pattern
Length changes
Lengthening back waist length
measure down from the waistline marking and place a mark on the work
sheet the distance to be added.
after making necessary bust changes, slide pattern to new mark and con-
tinue width changes.
Shortening back waist length
measure up from the waistline marking and place a mark on the work
sheet the distance to be shortened.
after making necessary bust changes, slide pattern to new mark and con-
tinue width changes.
Width changes
Increasing width at bust
compare your measurement to the pattern ideal
take the difference and divide by 4
mark this measurement out from pivot point B
Place pin in pivot point A
pivot pattern to mark at bust
trace the new armscye cutting line
Decreasing width at bust
compare your measurement to the pattern ideal
take the difference and divide by 4
mark this measurement in from pivot point B
Place pin in pivot point A
pivot pattern to mark at bust
trace the new armscye cutting line
Increasing width at waist
compare your measurement to the pattern ideal
take the difference and divide by 4
mark this measurement out from pivot point C
Place pin in pivot point B
pivot pattern to mark at waist
trace the new bust to waist cutting line
Decreasing width at waist
compare your measurement to the pattern ideal
take the difference and divide by 4
mark this measurement in from pivot point C
Place pin in pivot point B
pivot pattern to mark at waist
trace the new bust to waist cutting line
Increasing width at hip
compare your measurement to the pattern ideal
take the difference and divide by 4
mark this measurement out from pivot point D
Place pin in pivot point C
pivot pattern to mark at hip
trace the new waist to hip cutting line
Decreasing width at hip
compare your measurement to the pattern ideal
take the difference and divide by 4
mark this measurement in from pivot point D
Place pin in pivot point C
pivot pattern to mark at hip
trace the new waist to hip cutting line
Special fitting
Princess seams
divide difference by 12
add pivot points on seamlines o( side front and side back pieces
follow same instructions as for standard fitting
Full back
make width adjustments to only back section of pattern
Square shoulders
pivot shoulder seams up from a point where the neckline and shoulder
seams meet
Sloping shoulders
pivot shoulder seams down from a point where Ihe neckline and shoulder
seams meet.